Transfăgărășan and Transalpina: riding Romania's mountain roads

Romania's two great mountain roads are on every rider's list, and they deserve to be. Both cross the Carpathians, both are spectacular, and they're very different rides.

Transfăgărășan (DN7C)

Built in the 1970s, the Transfăgărășan climbs from the south past the Vidraru Dam and the ruins of Poenari Castle, through forest and up to Bâlea Lake at the top, before dropping in a stack of hairpins to the north. The northern side is the famous one: the road folds back on itself across a bare valley.

Tips:

• Ride south to north for the best views of the northern hairpins, or ride it both ways.
• Weekends in July and August are very busy. Weekday mornings are much better.
• Watch for bears in the forest sections, especially near Vidraru. Don't stop to feed them.
• The tunnel at the top is dark and wet.

Transalpina (DN67C)

Higher, longer and less famous, the Transalpina runs from Novaci in the south to Sebeș in the north, over the Parâng Mountains. The section near the Urdele Pass runs along open ridges above the treeline with views in every direction. The tarmac is generally good, with faster, more flowing corners than the Transfăgărășan.

Riding both

The two roads are about 100 km apart. A good plan over two or three days:

1. Ride the Transalpina north from Novaci.
2. Stay near Sibiu.
3. Ride the Transfăgărășan south from Cârțișoara, down past Bâlea Lake to the Vidraru Dam.

Season

The Transfăgărășan's high section is usually open from 1 July to 31 October, but can close for snow or works. The Transalpina's high section usually opens in early summer and closes in autumn. Check both before you travel.

Good to know

• Romania needs a rovinieta (road vignette) for cars. Motorcycles have been exempt. Check the rules when you go.
• Fuel stations are sparse in the mountains. Fill up before each road.